Saturday, July 18, 2009

First and Last Impressions




Sapa, Vietnam, where street gangs of Black Hmong ladies in full tribal costume harangue you the moment you descend from the minibus at 7 AM. They are selling bracelets and purses, which is very much what you are wanting after a mostly sleepless night on a train and before you've had a coffee. They are just trying to make an honest buck and have benefited greatly from the tourist influx. Aside from the hard sell, Sapa is stunning country in northern Vietnam and any visit would not, in my mind, be complete without seeing those mountains. The mountains themselves are not massive, but they are unusual, as mountains go, very green and pointy. Plus the area is so different from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and Saigon, making it well worth the trip. The trails are not great and if it rains, which it did when I was there, it is very slippery. But with the rains come moody low clouds and very pretty fog. And there is a crazy mud slide thing you must cross and you feel like you'll plunge any minute into the gorge below. Which you might. The overnight train to Lao Cai is an experience itself--you don't get much sleep, as the train is noisy and bumpy, but then you have three strangers sleeping in the same small cabin, so maybe for the best?

Anyway, that was the end of my time in Vietnam and I am currently in Siem Reap, Cambodia, home of the famous Angkor Wat. The Temples-they are lovely, impressive, and amazing achievements. But I am afraid-and I hate to say this-that I have discovered I am not really a temple kind of girl. I liked them very much, but was more enthralled by the elephants galloping by. But I will surely be back during my time here and maybe a temple or two at sunrise will change my mind. I may have sightseeing fatigue. The town of Siem Reap itself is worth several visits, as so many good restaurants and great people watching. Some odd slightly off-putting sights as well: One street performer had a stunt where he placed his child, a two year old or so, on his shoulders and the baby stood unsupported for about ten seconds. Then the man took up a collection for this "trick". Stuff like this bothers me, but things are that way here. I intend on being a patient observer, at least for the time being. Place your bets for how long that lasts.

Tomorrow to Phnom Penh. Home.